36 Hours in Stowe, Vermont

There’s something about Vermont. You cross the border and the energy changes. Things are settled, grounded as ancient as the Green Mountains, worn down after millions of years of wind. Even with all of the wear and tear, there’s still something wild about the state, the way there’s something wild about Alaska. A person can get lost here. 

At least, I like to get lost here. From the first time I visited the state, I fell in love and felt at home. With the mountains around me instead of billboards and buildings, I could breathe easier than I had in years — since my summers in Point Abino, Ontario. When my partner and I talk about a Dream House, it’s always a place away in these woods, a refuge away from the noise of everyday life. 

So when I dream about city breaks these days, it’s always about going north: Quebec City, Magag, Burlington, and, of course, Stowe, just a three-hour drive from Boston.

While neither of us is a skier, my partner and I do love a good ski lodge. They always have a few of our favorite things: fireplaces, a great wine selection, a sauna, and the ability to get a massage without putting snow boots back on. 

We had this experience in March when Topnotch Resort hosted us for two nights, treating us to breakfast and dinner at the on-premises restaurant, The Roost, plus access to the private his and hers spa lounges and a signature massage. 

Topnotch, like most places in Vermont I love, is understated, with subtle, modern features that don’t detract from the overall rustic charm. 

When you walk into the hotel, there’s a smiling face waiting to greet you behind the check-in desk while a wood fire crackles and pops off to the left. To the right are elevators, some guest rooms, and the hallway leading to the fitness center, pool, and spa. 

The rooms, too, are modest and rustic, an elevated level of cozy that reminded me of being back at the Four Seasons Nashville. Our Executive King room had vaulted ceilings and a view of Mt Mansfield. 

2024 has been my year of discovering what wellness activities (for lack of a better word) help my incredibly fried nervous system. With C-PTSD, being touched by other people and being exposed or vulnerable, like only having a towel and underwear on during a massage, wearing only a towel in a sauna, and changing in front of everyone in a locker room, aren’t easy. Things that are supposed to bring you comfort only spike your cortisol levels. 

That said, I had an amazing massage experience with the staff at Topnotch Spa. They tailored the massage specifically to what I needed that day, were extremely communicative, and even offered advice on types of additional treatment to seek to help support recovery from a recent concussion.

I also felt very comfortable in the women-only locker room at Topnotch Resort’s spa. They have everything you need for showering off after a swim, hot tub soak, sauna session, or massage, from robes to razors for shaving, as well as deodorant and hairspray. If you forgot it, they probably have it.

Outside the private lounges, spa guests and anyone with a day pass can enjoy the heated indoor pool, a hot tub with a cascading waterfall, and the outdoor pool and jacuzzi, both of which offer breathtaking views of Mt. Mansfield. 

PSA: You do not have to be a Topnotch Resort guest to book a spa service. Even if you’re staying somewhere nearby or you’re just passing through, you can book a treatment.

Another perk of ski resort towns? The food culture. In my experience, Vermont has an elevated food culture, with amazing meals hiding in even the most unlikely places. 

Derby Line, Vermont, for instance, is home to Derby Line Village Inn, where you can get out-of-this-world escargot. Head over to nearby Newport, where, at Lago Trattoria, you’ll find lollipop lamb that melts in your mouth and the Cinchaali that sets the standard against which I judge every other cinchalli I try. 

Stowe, of course, has no shortage of high-end food next door to every local’s favorite watering hole. At Après Cocktails & Wine, we found a delightful mix of both. Their whole thing is “inspired cocktails in an unexpected location.” There are no reservations; everyone’s welcome if they can find a place to sit or stand. 

The building itself is modern and minimal, the quaint New England answer to what might be a strip mall somewhere else.

Inside the cocktail bar, there are white walls, modern, inviting furniture, and rustic touches that fit in with the town’s identity as part resort town, part place where people choose to live hard and work hard year-round. 

We sunk into a large, cozy white couch, the fabric feeling like well-worn fleece. There was a large, low coffee table that looked like a barrel, with books, a plant, and a candle. Coasters and a menu were also set up, waiting for patrons. Next to the couch, a small ladder held blankets in case you got cold either inside or on the back patio. 

There was a whole, hanging out at a millennial’s house vibe to Après, like the center of the Venn Diagram between hipster and rustic. The menu is where you’ll find the splashes of color and creativity. Under the ingredients to each drink, unless it’s an old classic like a hot toddy, you’ll find the year the drink was created and who made the recipe.

There is a seasonal list of featured cocktails as well as a lengthy list of classics and house favorites, like the Penicillin (Bourbon, Scotch, Lemon, Honey, Ginger), Old Fashioned (Rye Blend, Demerara, Angostura, & Orange Bitters), and variations of the hot toddy, like the Classic Toddy (Bourbon, lemon, ginger, honey, orange bitters, served hot) and Gin Toddy (Tom Cat Gin, Cynar, lemon, local honey, orange hitters, served hot). 

I ordered a Thanks, it Has Pockets, a blend of Gin, Lilet Blanc, Clarified Lime, and Orange Blossom Water, which you can still find on the Après Classics menu. My partner ordered Smoke and Mirrors, a mezcal-based cocktail available in March 2024. 

For dinner, we split (and enjoyed) the special, an appetizer with brie and baked pear slices, plus the grilled corn nachos with roasted chicken, an Après staple. 

You can spend a full day in Stowe, Vermont, in a few different ways, depending on how much energy you’re looking to burn.

 Located two miles from Stowe Mountain, Topnotch Resort offers a complimentary shuttle to Stowe Mountain and Stowe Village, making the resort an ideal ski destination for those who prefer to avoid parking hassles. Aside from downhill skiing and snowboarding, Stowe offers an extensive trail system that is utilized for dog sledding, snowmobiling, sleigh rides, and more. 

Speaking of sleigh rides, Topnotch Resort also has an on-premises equestrian center. Before the snow starts falling, guests can take guided trail rides, while small children can take corralled pony rides. Once there’s snow on the ground, you can book horse-drawn sleigh rides, complete with warm blankets and jingle bells. 

Plus, you’re close to fan-favorite Vermont attractions like Ben and Jerry’s Factory, Vermont Teddy Bear Factory, Cold Hollow Cider Mill, Stowe Cider, WhistlePig Whiskey, and more. 

One of our favorite places to visit in Stowe is the Von Trapp Brewing Bierhall + Restaurant – and not (just) for the beer. 

Besides being a great place to grab lunch, this is one of our favorite disc golf courses in Vermont. The ski-in, ski-out patio is ideal for cross-country skiers and disc golfers undeterred by snowfall or cold weather, as there are usually fires waiting for you to warm yourself by. 

If there is no snow, you can hike the trails. Check the conditions on their website before heading out to know which activities will be available. 

Maybe it’s just Bostonians who have an aversion to hotel and resort restaurants, but The Roost, located inside Topnotch Resort, is not to be missed.  

With locally sourced ingredients and careful attention to Vermont’s approach to cooking, The Roost is somewhere I’d choose to eat even if I wasn’t staying at Topnotch. With a wood-burning fireplace crackling in the corner and people playing at the Shuffle Board Dining Bar, there’s more of a family lodge atmosphere than a fancy restaurant. 

The breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus reflect this vibe, offering many elevated comforts through a mix of modern favorites and classic dishes.

For dinner, we took advantage of the small plate menu, choosing to split the Smoked Duck Flatbread (sliced smoked duck, mushrooms, roasted garlic cream, and pesto), Crispy Brussel Sprouts, plus the Baby Romaine Wedge Salad, and Butternut Squash Soup. 

The next morning, looking out on Mt. Mansfield, we drank hot, fresh coffee and had a quiet, simple breakfast. He had the House-Made Corned Beef Hash — something he’s compelled to try whenever it’s on a menu — while I ordered the Avocado Toast. It was the perfect soothing bookend to an incredibly relaxing city break.